White mustard Sinapis alba

These blogs discuss some common wildflower families.  To get the basics sorted, take a look at my blogs on  the basics of botany, different fruit types, and how Latin names work and matter (What’s in a name 1 and part 2).  Check out the other families I’ve researched, the Ranunulaceae (Buttercups) and Caryophyllaceae (Campions) and keep an eye out for more families over the coming months.  You could also browse all my blogs on Botany: Telling species apart.

Although I know a bit about wildflowers, I am an amateur, and not a botanist.  I’ll try to get stuff right, but if you see a mistake, please tell me.

Sketchbook study of Wallflower Erysimum cheiri

Wildflower families: Brassicaceae

The Cabbage family has 390 genera and over 3000 species globally.  Flowers have a distinctive four-petalled cross shape, and leaves are varied but alternate.  Seed pods, or siliques, are another marker of this group of wildflowers.  As well as Cabbage, vegetables like Cauliflower and broccoli, and turnips; Brassicaceae include garden flowers like Stocks and Candytuft.  Many wildflowers are in this family, including the mustards, and ubiquitous Shepherd’s purse.

Savoy cabbage Brassica oleracea var. sabauda

Brassicaceae overview

Plants in this family have alternate leaves, cross-shaped flowers with four petals, and tend to have seeds held in elongate or squat seed pods which split in any number of ways. The name Brassicaceae comes from the Latin for cabbage, Brassica.  It’s interesting to note that the Welsh (and other Celtic languages) for cabbage is similar, Bresych, which probably predates Latin as the source.

This family used to be known as the Cruciferae, referring to the four-petalled flowers, like a cross or crucifix.

Garlic Mustard Alliaria petiolata

Brassicaceae Leaves

Brassica leaves are simple, with smooth edges.  Some may be very deeply lobed, like the Watercress.  (For more on simple versus compound leaves check out my blog)   They do not have stipules.  There can be a big difference between leaves at the base and higher up the stem of a plant, with lower leaves lobed and upper ones entire.

Watercress Nasturtium officinale

Brassicaceae Flowers

Brassicaceae flowers are in large clusters, and are yellow or white.

The bumpy bits of broccoli and cauliflower that we eat are, in fact, flower buds.  Leave broccoli to grow, and it’ll produce a spike of yellow flowers (which are also edible).

Broccoli Brassica oleracea italica

Flowers are regular, with radial symmetry and that distinct four-petalled shape. They do not have bracts or bracteoles.

There are four free sepals and four free petals.  Within, there are four stamens, two short ones on the outside and four longer ones in the centre of the flower.  Unlike members of the Ranunculaceae family, anthers face inwards.  Flowers are bisexual.

Oil seed rape flower Brassica napus

Two fused carpels form a superior ovary, which grows above the rest of the flowering structure.  For more on this look at my blog on the ovary.

Brassicaceae Fruit

Seeds develop in one of two pods, both of which are dry and split at maturity.  The shorter pods are called Siliculas (like Shepherd’s purse), the longer ones are referred to as Siliqua (like Mustard or Oil-seed rape).  They may be flattened, or clearly show the round seeds inside.  Some, like mustards, have long beaks.  Some seeds, like those of Woad, aren’t in pods at all, but non-splitting pendulous winged fruit.

Oil seed rape flower Brassica napus with long beaked siliqua

When mature, they split from the bottom upwards. Sometimes this is a simple split, like the Wallflower and Honesty.  Sometimes there’s a twist at dehiscence (as with Hoary whitlow grass) which pings the seeds far from the parent plant.

You can see the seeds within, attached to both sides of a papery partition wall (the replum).  If the seeds attach parallel or perpendicular to the replum can help tell species apart.

Wallflower Erysimum cheiri siliqua

The seeds themselves have almost no endosperm, but a large oily embryo.  Seed coats can be mucilaginous.

Brassicaceae: Other species

As well as the vegetables and crop plants we’ve discussed, Brassicaceae contains horse radish, Garlic mustard, and one of my favourite wildflowers, Lady’s smock or cuckoo-flower.

Orange-tip Anthocharis cardamines butterfly with Cuckoo-flower Cardamine pratensis

Conclusion

I hope this blog on the Brassicaceae wildflower family has been helpful.  I plan to write more blogs in this series over the coming weeks and months.  References include the FSC botany course, from Common Families of Flowering Plants by Michael Hickey & Clive King, and from Naturespot.

Sea radish Raphanus raphanistrum maritimus

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Actually, before I start this blog I need to clarify the title, “Botanical Illustration of a Brassica leaf”.  The leaf I’m discussing is that of a Yellow Mustard plant, Brassica juncea, a species of Brassica.

The colours of Brassica leaves are very similar across many members of the family.  The Brassicaceae or Cabbage family is large and encompasses lots of our common crop plants; turnip, cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, radish, oil-seed rape, kale, collards, brussels sprouts, mustards….  All Brassicas have distinctive four-petalled cruciferous flowers which have two long and two short stamens.  Petals are often white or yellow.  The seeds are borne in long pods called siliques.  (For more on different types of fruit, check out my earlier blog).

Diagram of a silique

Brassica Leaves

I’m working on a series of crop plants for a German client, and I found I kept using the same mixes of colour for the leaves.  Turnips, oil-seed rape, radish, mustards…  All are slightly different in their precise shade of green, but the glaucous, blueish and powdery look and feel to the leaves is distinctive.

So how do you approach this colour?  First thing is to look very closely at the leaf, and spend time mixing your watercolour.  I use Winsor and Newton pans, topped up from the tube when they run low. I begin with a cerulean blue.  Add some Yellow ochre, the a tiny dash of Viridian.  Some Cobalt blue is handy, and so is a dash of a purple.  The finishing touch to this glaucous mix is a tiny dab of white ink (I use Doctor Martin’s).  This helps to nail the paleness of the leaf, and makes it feel slightly powdery.

Choice of brush and paper is important too.  I always use a number 1 size Winsor and Newton Series 7 sable brush, and my current favourite paper is Stonehenge Aqua (hot Press).

Brassica leaf

Technique

As always, I pick out my darks first with my initial colour mix, and then layer a slightly lighter green on top once it’s dry.  This colour will have a bit more yellow ochre in, and be more dilute.  Once this dries I apply a third wash over all the leaf (except on the veins which remain unpainted and white).  This is more dilute, and has yet more yellow ochre in.

Once this is dry I put a very watery wash over the entire leaf (including the veins).  This is mostly yellow ochre, with a touch of a blue-green.  Apply it really wet and allow it to dry completely before the next step.

Next, and unusually for me, I added a second wet wash over the whole lot.  This is where the Brassica leaf colours started to look realistic.  I mixed cobalt blue and cerulean blue with a whole lot of water and applied it across the whole leaf, very wet.  This made the entire leaf much bluer, and also has the added benefit of crisping up the edges of the leaves, where the paint pools and dries.  I love the sharp edges you get with wet watercolour once it’s dried, and am trying to use them more and more in my illustrations.

Painting a shadow

Shadows on Glaucous leaves

I often use purples for leaf shadows, and this works really well on the soft chalky blue-greens of a brassica leaf.

The somewhat blurry photo above shows me working into the darkest corners of a leaf with a watery mix of Cobalt blue and purple.  I picked out the edges of the veins with yellow ochre plus a touch of purple (a slightly brown grey, in effect).

I repeated this across the plant until the leaves were all completed.  In the picture below you can see how the yellow and blue washes have added large zones of colour and depth to the leaves.

Yellow mustard plant with leaves completed

Stems and the silique

Stems are easy.  Mix a pale green that reflects the colour of the plant you’re illustrating.  Paint a thick line down one side of the stem (for me this tends to be the right hand side as I favour a light source coming from the top left), and a thin one down the other.  Let them dry, then dilute your pale green and pop this top wash over the stem.  Done.  You may want to add shadows later, you may not need to.

Detailed close up of a stem being outlined

Approach the silique in a similar manner, but with a pale mix of yellow ochre and Van dyke brown (or whatever colours best capture the plant in front of you).  A wet top wash gives it colour and bulk.

Painting the tip of the silique fruiting capsule or pod

Painting the flowers

Once the stems, brassica leaves and siliques are done, you can treat yourself by doing the pretty yellow flowers.

Mixing this colour is very straight-forward.  Cadmium yellow light plus some of that Dr Martin’s Hydrus white watercolour.  Perhaps a tiny dab og green.

Pick out the darks, let them dry, then apply a dilute top wash.

Stamens and shadows come next.

Mixing white ink into Cadmium yellow light

Finishing Touches

Finally, I re-visit the whole of the plant with my trusty purple-blue shadow mix.  I use a more neutral shade for the yellow flowers (see my blog for more on Mixing neutral tints).  Make sure the plant balances, and that the shadows make sense.  Then that’s it, finished!

Completed botanical illustration of the Yellow Mustard Brassica juncea complete with blue-ish leaves.

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